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8、ARTSFriday-Sunday,May4-6,2012asia.WSJ.com/lifestyleMasteringthefreshlimejuice—thinkofhowstrongyourfore-armswillget!—andnailtheproportionsandyou’llhaveawonderfullysweet,tangy,slightlyearthy(that’sthe100%agave)drinktosipthisCinco
9、deMayoandthroughoutthesummer.Margarita“Where’sthestrawberry?”youmightbeask-ing.“CanIgetextrasaltonmyrim?”Puristsscoffatalterationstothemargarita—yes,theharsheststicklerssaynosalt—buttheadd-onsIt’stimetopourthemixdownthearepartofthedrink’sfunfactor.“Margaritasarelikeburgers,”saidBobbyHeugel,
10、ownerofAnvildrainanddiscoverthepartyBar&RefugeinHouston,oneofTexas’scraftcocktail’sdeepersidecocktailmeccas.“Therecanbegoodonesonthehigh,gourmetlevel,andgoodonesatthelow,fast-food-likelevel,too.”AtAnviltherearesev-eralversionsofthemargarita,abasicone(50gramstequila,20gramsCombier,20gramslim
11、eBYKEVINSINTUMUANGjuice,1barspoonagave)andthespecialAnvilmargarita,whichisablendofdifferentagave-nSpanish,margaritameans“daisy.”Ibelievebasedspiritsaswellasorangebitters.(Mr.Heu-Ithetranslationiscloserto“superfuntime.”gelkeepstheexactrecipeasecret.)Totallyfinetothinkofthecocktailthatway,Int
12、hemargaritaexperimentationgame,asbutlet’sputdowntheready-made,Day-Glosourlongasyou’reusingqualityingredients,you’remix,stepawayfromthemargaritamachineandwinning.Thatmeansnomargaritamixes.Varia-takethedrinkseriouslyforjustamoment.Thetionscanbeassubtleasswappingonecitrusoutmargaritamayconjure
13、imagesofspringbreakinforanother,choosinganagedtequilaoveraCancúnandfishbowlglasseswithcactusesasblancoor,asinTommy’smargaritafromstemsoryardstick-longcontainersfilledwithTommy’sMexicanRestaurantinSanFrancisco,boozyslush.Butthecocktailissomuchmoreditchingtriplesecinfavorofagavesyrup.Onthetha
14、nthat.moreelaborateendofthespectrum,margaritasItdoesn’ttakemuchtoelevatethemargaritacanbeimbuedwithfruitpurées,rimmedwithtothetopofthedrinkcanon.Despiteitsunfortu-chipotle-spicedsaltorincorporatespiritsoutsidenatereputationastheLindsayLohanofthedrinkofst
